Describes the author's experiences as a lifelong surfer, from his early years in Honolulu through his culturally sophisticated pursuits of perfect waves in some of the world's most exotic locales.
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Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the wor...
Describes the author's experiences as a lifelong surfer, from his early years in Honolulu through his culturally sophisticated pursuits of perfect waves in some of the world's most exotic locales.
When a stranger, who fancies himself an actor, comes to town intent on killing him, Stoneface Finnegan must go up against this madman who has cut a bloody swath across the American West, saving Stoneface Finnegan for his final act.
Introducing a new western hero in the grand Johnstone tradition: a mining town saloonkeeper who serves up justice like a shot of liquor--150-proof. JOHNSTONE COUNTRY. BOOMTOWN JUSTICE. Rollie Finnegan is a man of few words. As a Pinkerton agent with two decades of experience unde...
If you were there, even just for some of it-Hawaii, California, surfing, the '70s-the memories and stories will flow freely from these photographs. Jeff Divine was there for all of it, and these images have been culled from an enormous personal archive. Divine was shooting for Su...
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** "Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of...